How Techno and Fetish Fashion "Stole" from Gays and Escorts: Berlin’s Underground Fashion Evolution
- Filip
- Mar 4
- 5 min read
Updated: Mar 5
Written by: Amanda Sandström Beijer
The fashion scene, amongst techno culture, has embraced elements from marginalized communities, such as the gay leather and sex worker scenes. Fashion items like harnesses, latex, and fishnets, once symbols of sexual empowerment and identity, have become mainstream in both fashion and clubbing. While this shift reflects a broader appreciation for these bold styles, it’s important to remember and honor their roots in these communities. By acknowledging their origins, we can celebrate the evolution of the fashion while ensuring respect for the people and struggles that shaped it
Today, elements such as harnesses, latex, high heels, and chains are commonly seen in techno fashion and fetish gear in Berlin’s renowned clubs like Berghain and Sisyphos - as well as on red carpets and fashion shows. But this raises significant questions about cultural recognition, ownership, and the need for support of marginalized communities whose labor and experiences paved the way for today’s underground fashion.
"Latex, fishnets, and high heels were never just about seduction—they were tools of empowerment for sex workers, now repurposed without recognition."
Harnesses: A Symbol of Empowerment Stolen from the Gay Leather Scene
The harness has become one of the most iconic pieces in Berlin’s techno fashion, but it owes its origins to the gay leather community. In the early days of BDSM culture, the harness was more than just a fashion statement—it was a symbol of sexual identity and empowerment for LGBTQ+ individuals. These garments, which signified one’s involvement in BDSM or the leather community, were worn proudly by those embracing their sexual and gender identities.
As the techno scene expanded in Berlin, these pieces—once worn as a marker of sexual orientation and personal empowerment—were co-opted by clubbers, DJs, and others in the underground scene. Now, harnesses are a staple in the fashin and clubbing culture, but the appropriation of these garments from the gay leather community highlights an important ethical question: when mainstream fashion borrows from marginalized subcultures, does it forget the struggles and the political roots behind these symbols of empowerment?
As techno becomes mainstream, so does its aesthetic. The question is: will it honor the histories it borrows from, or erase them?
Sex Worker Aesthetics: The Borrowing of Provocative Fashion
Just as the gay community contributed to the evolution of underground fashion, the sex worker community, particularly escorts, has also played a crucial role. Latex, fishnets, high heels, and bodysuits were initially designed not just for sensual appeal but for empowerment.
For sex workers, these garments were tools of both sexual self-expression and agency. Fashion was not just for pleasure; it was a form of power in an industry where the agency of those performing intimate labor was too often overlooked.
Over time, these provocative pieces of clothing—designed specifically for sexualized work—made their way into the mainstream techno scene. Latex, high heels, and chains can now be spotted in clubs across Berlin, where they are worn as part of the rebellious fashion of the city’s underground culture. The sexualized aesthetics of sex worker fashion have been repurposed and stripped of their initial context, often without recognition or acknowledgment of their roots in sex work.
This appropriation highlights an uncomfortable truth: the fashion and techno communities have borrowed freely from the sexual labor of sex workers, yet they have been largely silent on the rights of sex workers and the political struggles that still surround their work. As sex work continues to face criminalization, stigma, and lack of legal protections, it is imperative that the techno scene and the fetish community advocate for sex worker rights, honoring the communities that paved the way for their current fashion trends.
Fetish fashion was born from the margins, from those who had to fight for visibility and agency. When these symbols are stripped of their origins, what remains?
Techno Fashion: The Rise of Fetish Aesthetics in the Underground Scene
Techno fashion in Berlin—often seen as radical, avant-garde, and boundary-pushing—has borrowed heavily from fetish fashion, which itself is rooted in marginalized communities. Latex, leather, chains, and harnesses were once elements of BDSM and gay leather culture but have become synonymous with techno aesthetic. While these items have been reclaimed by the underground, their origins in LGBTQ+ and sex work communities should not be overlooked.
The fetish aesthetic—which was once a symbol of sexual freedom, dominance, and submission—has now become a fashion statement in fashion. What was once specific to BDSM, gay culture, and sex work has become a key component of the techno identity. But this transformation raises a key issue: cultural appropriation. In adopting these garments, the techno fashion community risks erasing the radical and political origins of these garments, many of which were created to help marginalized communities claim agency and visibility.
Rebellion and Appropriation: A Fine Line
While it can be empowering for individuals in the techno scene to embrace fetish fashion—signaling rebellion and sexual freedom—it is crucial that the roots of these fashion choices are recognized. The gay leather scene, BDSM subcultures, and sex workers laid the groundwork for much of the fashion we see today, and the fashion community must confront the unsettling realities of appropriation. This fashion theft often happens without cultural acknowledgment, leading to a disconnect between the original meanings of these garments and their contemporary use.
As the techno scene becomes more commercialized and mainstream, it becomes even more important for the fetish fashion community to support sex worker rights and LGBTQ+ rights. The communities that inspired these fashion trends are often still marginalized, criminalized, and stigmatized. By advocating for their rights and recognizing their contributions, the techno scene can help ensure that the origins of these fashion trends are honored, rather than appropriated without acknowledgment.
Conclusion: The Complex Intersection of Techno, Fetish, and Marginalized Fashion
The fusion of techno and fetish fashion in Berlin reflects the city's rebellious spirit and its commitment to sexual freedom and individuality. However, as harnesses, latex, and fishnets make their way from the underground into the mainstream, it is essential to recognize the communities—particularly sex workers and the gay community—that shaped these iconic pieces of fashion.
In embracing these garments, the techno scene and fetish fashion communities must also take responsibility for supporting the LGBTQ+ rights and sex worker rights. The fashion that has come to represent sexual liberation and empowerment in the Berlin underground scene has its roots in struggles for visibility, agency, and freedom—struggles that continue today.
By supporting sex worker rights and LGBTQ+ rights, the techno scene and fetish fashion communities can ensure that the fashion they now embrace continues to honor its roots, while contributing to the ongoing fight for the rights of those who were first responsible for creating the fashion they now wear.
